Photo credit (c) Michael Sheikh
Tamim's Saland-e Nakhod
(Afghan Chickpea Stew)
This recipe is an insert from Michael Shaikh’s book, The Last Sweet Bite.
This recipe for saland-e nakhod, a richly spiced chickpea dish, comes from Tamim, whose cooking first inspired the concept for the book after a meal shared in his Kabul home in the summer of 2007. While it is served here with rice, it was originally enjoyed scooped up with pieces of Afghan naan.
Wheat is one of Afghanistan’s primary cereal crops, and naan is a staple at nearly every meal, typically purchased fresh from local bakers. Afghan naan, baked in a tandoor, is distinct in its long shape, thicker texture, and balance of a crusty exterior with a soft, chewy interior. Its subtle smoky flavour is enhanced with salt, sesame seeds, and nigella seeds.
Rice is the country’s second most important staple, forming the base of dishes like qabuli palaw, narenj palaw, and zereshk palaw. While basmati rice pairs well with saland-e nakhod, it can just as easily be enjoyed with fresh naan, as it traditionally is.
Makes 3 to 4 servings
Ingredients
2 cups dried chickpeas
1 cup plain full-fat Greek yogurt
2 or 3 garlic cloves
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 fresh green chili (such as Thai or serrano), stemmed and finely chopped, plus a few whole chilies for serving 1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 small tomato, very finely chopped
Fresh cilantro, whole leaves or chopped, for serving
Cooked basmati rice for serving
1. Pick over the chickpeas and discard any with shriveled or broken skin and any bits of grit. Place the chickpeas in a large fine-mesh sieve and rinse well under cold running water. Transfer to a large bowl, add water to cover generously, and let soak overnight.
2. The next day, put the yogurt into a small bowl. Finely grate two garlic cloves over the yogurt and add a pinch of salt. Stir well and then taste. You want to taste the garlic, so don't hesitate to grate the remaining clove if it is needed. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the yogurt.
3. In a medium, heavy pot, warm the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the onion and chopped chili and cook, stirring often, until the onion is lightly golden and the chili is softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, and pepper and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the tomato and 1 teaspoon salt and mix well.
4. Drain the chickpeas, add to the pot, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Stir well and bring to a boil, then turn down the heat so the mixture is at a gentle simmer. Cover partially and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chickpeas are tender and the liquid has reduced to a thick soup consistency, 45 minutes to 1 hour (but start checking at 30 minutes).
5.Remove from the heat, taste, and adjust the seasoning with salt if needed. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the garlic yogurt. Taste and add more yogurt if desired. Transfer the stew to a serving bowl and top with cilantro. Serve immediately, accompanied with the remaining garlic yogurt, warm rice, and whole chilies to nibble on for extra heat.